This the third installment of a four-part series that explores a small portion of the embellished lore associated with the creation of Sequoia National Park, exposing little-known aspects perhaps suitable only for the Halloween season and those with sturdy digestive systems. In previous segments, we met Will Trauger who was tumbling down a mineshaft (Part 1), the legend that’s James Wolverton, and a group of Three Rivers Boy Scouts searching for Wolverton’s grave (Part 2). In this third part of the series, we meet Joel Rivers Woolverton at his ghastly end.

The aptly named Hospital Rock in Sequoia National Park has provided refuge for sick and injured Euro-Americans since the 1860s. (Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks photo from the Digital Archive Gallery)

By Laile Di Silvestro, 14 October 2019, 3RNews

Before we return to Will Trauger at the bottom of a forty-foot mine shaft, let’s step back to a time when Will owned the property where Three Rivers Boy Scouts were to seek James Wolverton’s gravesite in 1936. It’s the last week in March 1893, and Joel Rivers Woolverton is lying helpless on the ground at Hospital Rock, about five miles northeast of Will’s place.

Hospital Rock adjacent to an unpaved Generals Highway and before it was improved for national park visitors. (Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks photo from the Digital Archive Gallery)

Joel wasn’t the first Euro-American to lie there, according to Walter Fry, the first civilian superintendent of Sequoia and General Grant National Parks. In 1860, John Swanson and Hale Tharp, who claimed to be the first Euro-American in the area, were exploring when Swanson injured his leg. They sheltered under Hospital Rock for three days while the Potwisha Monache tended Swanson’s wounds with a poultice of jimsonweed leaves and bear fat. 

Joel also wasn’t the first to suffer there alone. In 1873, a hunter and trapper named Alfred Everton was shot in the thigh by one of his own guns. He had stretched a string across a bear trail and attached the string to the gun’s trigger. He meant to shoot a bear with it, but accidentally brushed the line himself. His hunting partner carried him to Hospital Rock where Everton waited alone until his partner returned with help three days later. 

Now Joel was there, alone, immobile, dying of an illness that prominently featured an abscessed groin. In other words, it is quite possible he was suffering the final stages of a sexually transmitted disease.

How did he end up at this point?                                      

Joel was born in about 1832 in the farming country of Ossian, New York. His father, Joel Woolverton III, had started producing children at the age of fifteen. Not all survived, but when our Joel was born seventeen years later, he had at least five older siblings at home.

His parents didn’t stop with Joel. By 1840, he had four more siblings, with a fifth on the way.                                         

Perhaps weary of farming, disgruntled with a crowded home, or simply yearning for wealth and adventure, Joel left New York by 1850 to join his older brother Alva and assumed brother Chancy in Ohio. From there, Joel and Chancy traveled overland to the California gold fields. They were mining somewhere in Placer County, California, when they registered to vote in the 1852 presidential election.

Four years later, Chancy was back in Ohio. Joel, however, kept following his dreams of wealth from gold camp to gold camp.

Gold Hill Nevada
An 1867 image of the Gold Hill, Nevada, mining camp. (National Archives at College Park collection)

The Civil War found Joel in Gold Hill, Nevada, a district that hosted numerous brothels and saloons. There, Joel joined the Nevada 1st Battalion Cavalry, Company D, on September 3, 1863.

His battalion was formed not to fight the Confederate forces, but to control the remnants of the Southern Paiute tribes in the Nevada Territory. Joel had fair skin, light blond hair, and steel blue eyes. At about six feet in height, he towered over most men of his time. He was consistently present at roll call, and quickly moved up the ranks from private to 2nd lieutenant.

Fort Churchill
An 1862 lithograph by Grafton Tyler Brown of the Fort Churchill, Nevada, military camp.

He spent the first year at Camp Nye, where he saw no action but impressed his superiors. The next year, he went to Fort Churchill to attend a court martial and then went to San Francisco to be mustered as a 2nd lieutenant.

After that, he and his company went on some scouting expeditions, but did not detect any hostiles. He was acting post adjutant for a short time. His Civil War service was decidedly uneventful, perhaps even boring.

Company D mustered out November 18, 1865. Joel had quit showing up consistently for roll call in September, however, and didn’t show up at all the last week of his service.

As a result, he was the only officer in the 1st Battalion who was declared a deserter. As a deserter, Joel commenced his post-war life without his $50 bounty and land warrant. 

The 1867 Official Registry of the Volunteer Force of the United States Army.

After his untimely departure from the Army, Joel seems to have disappeared. He didn’t participate in a census or register to vote, at least not under his given name.

A decade after his desertion, however, Joel resurfaced in the Hueneme District of Ventura County. Named after the Chumash word for “resting place,” the Hueneme District produced an abundance of lima beans and sugar beets. Here, in 1875, Joel registered to vote as a farmer. He had returned to his agricultural roots.

Port Hueneme street scene, 1890. (Los Angeles Public Library)

It is uncertain how long Joel resided in Ventura County. A street named Wolverton suggests he may have stayed long enough to make a mark on the land.

Meanwhile, the Nevada government seems to have reconsidered Joel’s record, and officials began to search for him as early as 1869. In 1886, they succeeded in finding him. A certification of service was filed, and on December 8 Joel finally received his $50 bounty.

On October 11, 1890, Joel registered to vote in Tulare County as a landless laborer. He was residing in the Kaweah District and may have already taken up residence at Hospital Rock or one of the other abodes that were associated with his name, including Tharp’s Log, Wolverton’s Lean-To, and a cabin in Wolverton Meadow, which was owned by his employer Hale Tharp.

Joel had been troubled by an abscess for some time when he collapsed at Hospital Rock. He could have been lying unable to move for days before Hale Tharp began to miss him.

When Tharp found him, it was clear that Joel’s condition was more than he could handle. Tharp went to the nearby homesteads and recruited Will Trauger and two other men to carry Joel 25 miles downriver to his homestead along Horse Creek (present-day Lake Kaweah).

The two-day trip was hazardous due to the heavy spring runoff. The men had to cross the Marble Fork of the Kaweah River holding Joel’s litter above their heads so that the rapids wouldn’t carry him away.

Mary Trauger
Mary Trauger attended to Joel Woolverton during his final days. (Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks photo from the Digital Archive Gallery)

Joel didn’t stay at Tharp’s for long before the men transported him back upriver to Will Trauger’s home, where Will’s adoptive mother Mary Trauger was willing to tend him. Assuming Joel was suffering the final stages of syphilis, he would have had oozing abscesses, dementia, and paralysis. It would have been unpleasant to tend him. Mary had earned her reputation as the “Angel of Mineral King,” however. Additionally, the Tulare County Board of Supervisors voted to pay her an allowance for the six months that Joel remained alive.

Joel died on October 8, 1893. His 61-year life differed substantively from the legend. His name was Joel, not James. Rather than serving under General Sherman, he was a deserter from the 1st Nevada Cavalry.

Wolverton death notice
Death notice in the Visalia Daily Times on page 4 of the October 25, 1893, issue. (Note: Joel was 61, not 51 as stated, when he died).

He was not in Tulare County from 1874 until his death, and there is no evidence that he owned any land in the county. He was a miner and farmer not a cowboy, fur trapper, and naturalist.

He lived his final months in Will Trauger’s house rather than Harry and Mary Trauger’s Last Chance Ranch fourteen miles farther up the Mineral King Road. And, finally, there is no evidence that he named the General Sherman Tree. Indeed, the name was not associated with the tree until 1897.

Joel was buried on Will Trauger’s land, however, as that was where he died. Will’s home was about a mile from the confluence of the East and Main forks of the Kaweah River near where the 1879 Mineral King Road crossed the river on a wooden bridge. Will was almost certainly among those who helped lay Joel to rest under the graying grasses, shrubs, and oaks. There is no evidence that the 4th Cavalry attended, so we will have to provide the sound of Taps ourselves and imagine Will walking away from the grave to find a whiskey bottle. In ten years he was going to collide with the bottom of a deep mineshaft.

Are you “dying” of curiosity about what happened to Will Trauger after he hit the bottom of the shaft? Read the final installment!

Acknowledgments:

This installment drew on the talents and support of multiple people. I am grateful to Savannah Boiano, research partner, naturalist, and adventurer extraordinaire; Bill Tweed, esteemed naturalist and historian, who has been researching the origin of the General Sherman Tree’s moniker; and the staff and volunteers at the Tulare County Library’s Annie Mitchell Room. 

The Trauger family

Sometimes a tale’s ending is so ghastly, we might be tempted to change it in the retelling. This is the final installment of a four-part series that explores little-known samples of local lore perhaps suitable only for the Halloween season and those with sturdy digestive systems. The first installment introduced us to the legend of James Wolverton and to Will Trauger, who was tumbling down a mineshaft. In the second installment we  met a group of Three Rivers Boy Scouts searching for Wolverton’s grave. And, in the third installment we followed Joel Rivers Woolverton to his final resting place. In this final part of the series, we face Will’s ghastly end.

The Trauger family
Harry, Mary, and Will Trauger (back, left to right) and friends, ca. 1900. (Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks photo from the Digital Archive Gallery)

By Laile Di Silvestro, 21 October 2019, 3RNews

When we last left Will Trauger, it was the dark night of May 23, 1903, and he had just reached the bottom of a forty-foot mineshaft. 

He wasn’t alone. Will Kenna had landed beside him, which wasn’t surprising as the men were seemingly inseparable. They lived together in a small cabin. They mined together when they weren’t drinking, and they drank together when they weren’t mining. They were about to become notorious.

Infamy wasn’t new to Will Trauger. Indeed, he had been born into it.

He started out life in 1859 as William McCoy. His mother, Margaret McCoy, was living with her husband, James, in Congress, Ohio, at the time, as was the presumably ardent Harry Trauger. It didn’t take James long to conclude that Will was not his son, and he filed for divorce from Margaret in 1860 on the grounds of her adulterous relationship with Harry. 

Divorce noticce

Margaret was cast out of her home and denied custody of her two older children. Harry Trauger was no help. He left Ohio for California, abandoning his mercantile and farming businesses for a relatively unsuccessful career as a miner.

Margaret and Will boarded with other families for a time while she developed a career as a women’s hat-maker. By the age of twenty, Will had abandoned her too. He took on the name of Trauger and headed west to find his father.

Harry Trauger was at this time living with his indomitable wife Mary on the Last Chance Ranch. He had found a job as supervisor for the duplicitous New England Tunnel and Smelting Company in Mineral King, and was now mining, tending the books as the mining district recorder, and earning a reputation as a drinking man.

The Smith House
The Crowley Resort, ca. 1890, at road’s end in Mineral King, now a part of Sequoia National Park. (Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks photo from the Digital Archive Gallery)

When Will arrived, the silver rush in Mineral King was all but over, but he was able to find work as a mining laborer for Arthur Crowley and helped him set up a summer resort in the Mineral King valley. For several years he and Harry also received a contract from the County of Tulare to maintain the Mineral King Road after the road was declared “a disgrace to an enlightened community” in 1893.

Will made a home on the land near the bridge over the East Fork of the Kaweah River, the home where he brought Joel Rivers Woolverton to be tended by his stepmother, and the land where he helped lay Woolverton to rest in 1893.

Will was a tall man at 5 feet, 10½ inches, with blue eyes, fair skin, and hair that had turned prematurely grey. Like his father, Will developed a profound relationship with the bottle.

He partook in intoxicated fistfights and even ended up in jail on one occasion with several of his friends. He was a favorite with the local newspapers, however, due to his exuberance for life.

Will enjoyed taking friends to Mineral King, where they hunted and ate roasted bear head, built and launched a boat in Eagle Lake, and carried trout to Mineral Lake in a coffee can. 

Will Trauger and friends at Eagle Lake. Will is in the back of the boat–the first to be launched on Eagle Lake. (Courtesy of Joe Hubbell)

In 1897 Will Trauger left Tulare County for the mines of El Dorado. There he, Will Kenna, and their small dog set up house in a little cabin in Volcanoville. It was only a half-mile distance from Phillip’s Place, a drinking establishment that they frequented when they weren’t seeking their fortunes in gold.

On the eve of May 23, 1903, the men stumbled together out of the establishment with their dog. The spent Rubicon Mine was in the vicinity, but in the dark only the dog saw its forty-foot shaft.

The impact broke both of Will Trauger’s thighs and one of Kenna’s legs.

They had one pistol between them. They fired all their bullets up the shaft and shouted, to no avail. Eventually their voices gave way.

Their absence was not noted because they were known to go missing on account of being drinking men. Kenna purportedly kept track of the passing days on a slip of paper.

According to Kenna, after several days, our Will realized he would die. He wrote a note to Harry and Mary and provided verbal instructions on the eventual disposition of his possessions.

An example of a mine shaft that was in the vicinity of the shaft that the two Wills fell victim to in 1903. (Photo courtesy California State Library)

He then became delirious and attempted to eat Kenna, who suffered numerous bites and clawing. According to Kenna, Will died after nine days in the shaft.

On the eleventh day, the little dog was able to attract the attention of George Morrow of the Gregory Mine. Morrow followed the dog to the abandoned shaft. There he found Will dead and Kenna extremely weak. Kenna’s leg was rotting, and it was deemed unlikely that he would live long.

How could Kenna have survived almost eleven days without food and water? We can easily imagine. The state of Will’s body prompted an inquest, which mercifully resulted in a verdict of accidental death.

Will’s ending was too ghastly for Mary and Harry Trauger. They told their friends and neighbors that Will had died honorably in a mining accident in Alaska.

Over time, Will became the “angel” Mary’s son, best known for his contribution to the new resort at Mineral King. And as we have seen, Joel River Woolverton’s story was improved as well. History renamed him James Wolverton and created a hero worthy of the biggest tree in the world. A hero who fought with General Sherman to preserve the Union; a hero who met John Muir and helped preserve the giant sequoias; a hero who stood lookout to protect the new Sequoia National Park from the ravages of livestock. A hero who stayed at his post even while facing his death.                                                                                                     …

What do we gain and lose from resurrection of the real stories? Certainly we lose the legend, but perhaps we gain an essential human connection through the less heroic and sometimes macabre truths. Regardless, we retain the story of a community that tends and celebrates even the least mighty among us.

Thus ends this series. The search for our roots goes on, however. One of the most rewarding aspects of historical research is the joy of discoveries that augment or refute what we thought we knew. If you have perspectives, stories, or evidence that would enhance or alter the tale that has been laid out in this space, please contact us. 

Acknowledgments:

I am grateful to Sarah and John Elliott for hosting this series, and for their ongoing support, encouragement, and editorial expertise. 

About the Author:

Laile Di Silvestro is a historical archaeologist who resides in Three Rivers, California, just outside Sequoia National Park. Her current project is researching and documenting the 19th-century mining activities in the Mineral King area of Sequoia National Park.

Sequoia National Park was created in 1890, named for the tree that it was created to preserve. The end.Or is it?

By Sarah Elliott, 20 July 2020, 3RNews

Sequoia National Park’s namesake is the Sequoiadendron giganteum, known to us laypeople as the giant sequoia, the most massive tree on the planet. But history may not be correct in how the “sequoia” received its name.

The sequence of Sequoia

The species of redwood that today bears the botanical name Sequoiadendron giganteum was identified by Stephan Endlicher (1804-1849), an Austrian botanist who died by suicide at the age of 44. It has been widely written, even by Sequoia National Park representatives, that Endlicher named the largest tree on the planet for Sequoyah (1770-1843) of the Cherokee Nation who created a syllabary of 86 characters that provided thousands of Cherokees the opportunity to read and write.

There is research that debunks this theory, stating that the European scientist never wrote down that he was honoring Sequoyah with the name Sequoia and there is no record of him speaking of this. In the words of one scientist who has written extensively on giant sequoias, it is contended that:

Sequoyah Sillabary
Sequoyah’s syllabary in the order that he arranged the characters. (Wikimedia Commons)

The Latin word that Endlicher chose to derive the prefix of the name for the coast redwood that established what Lowe (2012) called Endlicher’s sequence of five genera in his Suborder Cunninghamieae is indeed appropriate: ‘I follow, i.e. sequor.’ Since in the verb ‘sequor’ the ‘passive r … was added immediately to the root of the verb,’ then dropping the added ‘r,’ leaves the root verb ‘sequo’ to which is added the Latin suffix ‘ia’ used in the naming of plants, yielding the new word Sequoia as the name for the plant. The Latin suffix ‘ia’ means something derived from, relating to, or belonging to what is conveyed in the prefix. The question then arises: Was Endlicher aware of this specific Latin grammatical nuance in order to derive his prefix? Yes. …” (from the book DEBUNKING THE SEQUOIA honoring SEQUOYAH MYTH, by Gary D. Lowe, 2018).

Sequoyah is remembered kindly by history, and his accomplishments have been honored. Oklahoma gave a statue of Sequoyah to the National Statuary Hall Collection in 1917. Sequoyah’s cabin in Oklahoma, where he lived from 1829 to 1844, is a National Historic Landmark. The United States Postal Service issued a stamp in his honor in 1980. However, as scholars and scientists delve deeper, it’s unlikely that Sequoyah is the namesake of the giant sequoia and, thus, Sequoia National Park.

Here is another citation:

In 1847 Endlicher, a German [sic] botanist, believing that [the tree] was a distinct genus, published it under the name of Sequoia. [Endlicher], contrary to custom, omitted to give the origin of his name, and botanists have conjectured that it was intended to commemorate ‘Sequoyah,’ a … Cherokee Indian, who, all by himself, invented an alphabet and taught it to his tribe by writing it upon leaves. … It seemed fitting that the redwood should be named for the red man, yet Prof. J. G. Lemmon and others consider it to have been derived from sequor (to follow) alluding to the fact that our redwoods are the followers of a vanishing prodigious race, which Prof. Lemmon considers a much more appropriate and pleasing origin for the botanical name of our monster tree.” —George Morris Homans, California State Forester, 1910-1921 (italic added to highlight the cultural racism)

And finally:

… No one has ever found mention in [Endlicher’s] writings of Sequoyah’s name or of his unique Cherokee syllabary. It was apparently assumed that Endlicher, a known philologist, admired the Indian for his linguistic accomplishments. The assumption became widespread, and some botanists, such as Asa Gray, searched the Endlicher papers for confirmation, but in vain. French botanist de Candole agreed with Gray that ‘the supposed origin of Sequoia from Sequoyah is entirely fanciful.’ —The Giant Sequoia of the Sierra Nevada, by R.J. Hartesveldt, H.T. Harvey, H.S. Shellhammer, and R.E. Stecker (1975)

[Article continues below. Click on the images for a slideshow.]

All that’s left today are their markings of millennia in stone…

Native people and Sequoia’s place names

Sequoia National Park set aside wilderness to preserve in perpetuity. This sounds good in theory (if you’re a white person), but the legislation took away yet more ancestral lands from the Native peoples. At that time, a scattering of Indigenous tribes was still living in the region that would become United States’s second national park before the end of the 19th century.

The irony of the national parks, and Sequoia in particular, is that these lands didn’t need protection until the white settlers arrived. They mined the mountains, their stock grazed the meadows, they cut the sequoias, and they displaced the Indigenous caretakers who coexisted with the land and respected the natural world.

By the end of the 19th century, the Native peoples who didn’t assimilate into white society were soon extinct. All that’s left today are their markings of millennia in stone: bedrock mortars scattered along the waterways, the mysterious bathtub-like basins in the sequoia groves, and some pictographs telling an undecipherable story of human occupation.

Contemporary tributes are few to the Native population that called the Sequoia region home for so many generations. There’s the carved “Indian head” sign at the entrance to the park. There are two place names along the highway named for tribes: Potwisha Campground (a Native village site) and Wuksachi Village (named in the 1990s).

Of the ancient Big Trees, dozens of which have commemorative names, only one tree in Sequoia National Park was named for an Indigenous person: Chief Sequoyah Tree. In contrast, there are twice as many trees — two — named for Black Americans: Colonel Charles Young and Booker T. Washington. The rest of the named trees mostly pay tribute to colonizers.

The ‘Indian Head’ sign at the entrance to Sequoia National Park.
Chief Sequoyah Tree
The Chief Sequoyah Tree in the Giant Forest Grove, Sequoia National Park.

The Chief Sequoyah Tree is a deserving tribute to an accomplished man who was greatly admired by the Cherokee people and others, but (1) Sequoyah is most likely not the namesake for the giant sequoia or Sequoia National Park, and (2) Sequoyah was not a chief. His maternal grandfather was a chief, but Sequoyah never held that distinction.

There is the Suwanee Grove of giant sequoias, which is a name derived from a native language. “Suwanee” is a projectile tool made by Native inhabitants of the eastern part of the country but the grove could also be named for a town in Georgia. Or Kentucky.

The trail to the pictographs at Hospital Rock, Sequoia National Park.

Hospital Rock provides visitors with the most visual replica of Indigenous occupation. There was a Native village here and there are prehistoric pictographs and bedrock mortars in the vicinity.

The Kaweah River is derived from the Native language. According to James Barton (1819-1912) of Three Rivers (the author’s great-great-grandfather): “Kaweah is formed from two words… Kawa is the Wutchumna word for crow. Aweah means ‘water’ in the same language. The combination of the two means crow-water and people got to pronouncing it wrong and it now has the name Kaweah.”

Grace Alles spent many summers at the family cabin at Atwell Mill. From her cabin, Grace could signal with lights to her sister Rose, who for some years was stationed at the Cahoon Rock Fire Lookout near Hockett Meadow, about 10 air miles away.

By Sarah Elliott, 3 September 1999, Kaweah Commonwealth

The Alles cabin is one of many historic remnants in the magical Mineral King area of Sequoia National Park that gives visitors a glimpse of late 19th and early 20th century life, a time that is so different, so far removed from today. The board-and-batten cabin, built in 1901, has been open to the public on Sunday during the past two summers.

The cabin is located 19 miles up the Mineral King Road from Hwy. 198 in Three Rivers (just before the Atwell Mill Campground) and 4.5 miles before the Mineral King Ranger Station. This Sunday of the Labor Day weekend marks the last time the cabin will be open to the public during the 1999 season.

Although there’s not much to see in the 600-square-foot dwelling, those with imagination and a love of history and the Sierra are transported to a time when the summer residence was a cozy, comfortable home for Philip Alles (pronounced Alice), his wife, Grace Mullenix Alles, and their two children, Rena and Oscar.

Docents, including Milton and Carol Savage and Jim and Jeanette Barton of Three Rivers, have worked tirelessly this summer to contribute to the upkeep of the cabin and restore the living quarters back to how the cabin by the Mineral King Road looked when Grace was in residence. The only thing that could keep Grace from the cabin every the summer was her death in 1981.

This summer (1999), with the help of National Park Service staff at Ash Mountain, a wood stove was delivered to the Alles cabin, a near-replica of the one Grace prepared meals on for her family, many guests, and sawmill workers for so many years.

Family ties

Philip and Grace Alles‘s daughter, Rena, was born at the family cabin in 1907. Rena married Fred Ogilvie and lived at the junction of South Fork and Old Three Rivers drives, near her parents’ home.

After living her entire life in Three Rivers, Rena moved a few years ago to the Bay Area to be near her daughter, Alice Noreen Ogilvie Schwartz. Bud and Dorothy Stuart of Three Rivers were visitors in the Alles cabin on a recent Sunday. Shirley Devol, who has a cabin in Mineral King, was the hostess that day and had a wonderful time listening to the couple’s reminiscences and taking notes.

Bud and Dorothy were married June 3, 1944, and honeymooned at the Alles cabin. The Stuarts became part of the family when Bud’s sister married Phil and Grace’s son, Oscar.

Hal Boley was another recent visitor. He passed by on his way to Hockett Meadow with his son, Tanner (a fifth-generation Alles), and Tom and Isaac Warner for a Boy Scout outing. Hal, too, has many memories of “Aunt Grace’s” cabin, and remembered the White wood stove and the cooler, accessible from inside the cabin but with the back side extending over the deck, covered with wet burlap bags for insulation, in place of the window that is now there.

Hal is the grandson of John Alles (1876-1957) and Rebecca Epperson Alles. John was Conrad and Christina Alles’s seventh child of 10 and brother to Phil Alles. He and Rebecca had three daughters — Thelma, Dorothy, and Lois.

Dorothy is Hal’s mother and Thelma, who has lived in Three Rivers much of her life, is matriarch of the Crain clan.

Hal’s new granddaughter, Savannah, is the sixth generation of the Alles family to reside in Three Rivers. Thelma’s granddaughter, Holly Crain- Peltzer, who also lives in Three Rivers, is a fifth-generation Alles.

Mullenix and his mill

Grace Alles has ties to the Atwell Mill area of Mineral King that began when her father, lsham “Doc” Mullenix, a Three Rivers pioneer, built the mill, which opened in 1873. It is no coincidence that this is the same year of the silver rush in Mineral King, and three mills were built in the vicinity to provide lumber to brace the mines and build dwellings.

The mill never proved profitable due to the same reasons mining in Mineral King could never pay. The location was too remote and the method of obtaining the product — in the mill’s case, giant sequoias — proved too difficult to cut. But Grace spent her childhood summers in this high mountain industrial environment, even receiving some of her schooling there.

In 1886, lsham sold his mill to A.J. Atwell, a retired judge from Visalia. Atwell also built cabins and a camp to help make his investment more profitable.

In 1891, Atwell leased the mill to the Kaweah Cooperative Colony, the utopian group headquartered on the upper North Fork in Three Rivers that had previously set their sights on the Giant Forest for its promise of timber. They were thwarted in those efforts in 1890 by the creation of Sequoia National Park.

In 1897, Mount Whitney Power Company leased Atwell’s Mill. The company felled giant sequoias to create more than one million board feet of lumber, which was used to build the flume from Oak Grove to Hammond near Three Rivers, over 30,000 feet in length (5.7 miles).

Most of the sequoia stumps at Atwell Mill that line the Mineral King Road and encompass the present-day campground are a result of this massive effort that, in less than one year, built the flume and the first hydroelectric station in Three Rivers.

In 1902, Judge Atwell sold the mill to Henry Alles, the eldest son of Conrad and Christina Alles and Grace Mullenix Alles’s brother-in-law. Henry was the first of the Alles family to emigrate to Three Rivers, convincing his parents and nine siblings to follow. They homesteaded land in 1885 on the South Fork of the Kaweah River.

Henry was born in 1866 and died in Three Rivers in 1940. Prior to owning the mill, he was the Mineral King stage driver, hauling guests, freight, and mail to and from the alpine valley.

Alles Cabin
The Alles cabin on the Mineral King Road at Atwell Mill. The rug on the porch was handmade by Grace Alles.

A small village had grown up around the mill site. Phil and Grace Alles moved into their Atwell Mill summer cabin in 1901, directly up the slope from the operating sawmill.

addition to working with his brothers at the mill, Phil Alles began another business in 1917. He operated an “auto stage,” which left Visalia every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday at 1 p.m., stopped for the night at Lake Canyon, built by the Grunigen family in the 1890s, and arrived in Mineral King at 11 a.m. the following day.

He would spend part of Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays, and all day Sunday with his family at the cabin before his return trip to the sweltering San Joaquin Valley for his next fares.

In 1920, the final sale of the mill occurred. It was purchased by a Seattle resident, a representative of the National Geographic Society, who donated the property to the National Park Service.

The mill still operated for a decade more, off and on, to process some of the timber that was felled during its heyday. The Civilian Conservation Corps dismantled and removed the mill about 1939, leaving a part of the iron steam engine, which now commemorates the former site of the mill, located at the edge of the meadow about 500 yards below the Alles cabin.

The Alles name is no longer heard much around Three Rivers. Of the 10 children of Conrad and Christina Alles, all raised and educated in Three Rivers, there were six boys and four girls.

Three of the sons — Henry, Conrad, and Adam — never married. Phil and Grace Alles had one son, Oscar, the only male to carry on the Alles name. Oscar and his wife (Bud Stuart’s sister) had one daughter together.

The Mineral King Road was realigned later from where it used to pass by the mill to its present location within a few feet of the front door of the Alles cabin. Upon Grace’s death, the cabin reverted full ownership to the Park Service, and the little cabin in the middle of the road is what’s left of a fledgling town and business venture in the Mineral King wonderland of 100 years ago.

Historic cabin gets a facelift with National Park Service restoration

By John Elliott, 3 September 2020, 3RNews

During the last few weeks, the historic Alles Cabin, built in 1901, is getting a badly needed facelift and restoration. For nearly three decades, that specialized preservation of the park’s historic resources would be undertaken by Thor Riksheim and his hand picked preservation crew. But Thor, who had long been recruited to work in other national parks, retired from the NPS last year and the search is on from within to find a replacement to fill some iconic work boots.

Riksheim was the last of a vanishing breed with a vast knowledge of historic materials — where they could be procured or how they could be reproduced. Add to his 25 years experience in Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks, an uncanny ability to solve problems. And what made Thor indispensable was that was equally adept in the front country or the wilderness.   

With each passing year, the back log of historic resources in need of restoration grows in number.  Several in the maintenance department, at Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks, have given the restoration work a try. It’s not the kind of work, long days in remote places, often in the backcountry, that’s for everyone. But meet Mike Varela, a local guy who grew up in Woodlake, lives in Three Rivers, and for the past 12 years has worked in the maintenance department at Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks.

Varela is the work lead on the Alles Cabin restoration, his first historic preservation project.  He would be the first to admit that he’s no Thor.  But with a reverence for historic resources and willingness to learn, Varela said, he would be all in on doing more of this type of specialized work.

For the Alles Cabin restoration, Varela was quick to point out all the help he got in learning some of what is involved in historic restoration. Brook Stiltz, who worked with Thor, taught Varela how to mill and make the cedar shingles. Maintenance staff from Lodgepole and Grant Grove shared their expertise too.

Varela hopes there are more many projects like the Alles Cabin in his future.  And maybe, Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks just might have found their next Thor and his magic hammer. 

Thor Riksheim and Jim Barton
CABIN TALK: Thor Riksheim, (left) work leader of the Cabin Creek restoration project in 2009 in Sequoia National Park, hears tales of ranger days from Jim Barton of Three Rivers, who was stationed there as a seasonal ranger from 1959 to 1961.
Painting of Dennison Mountain

An 84-year-old poem and painting about a mountain impacted by the Castle Fire in 2020

By Sarah Elliott, 16 September 2020, 3RNews

This poem and painting were originally published in the October 14, 2014, issue of The Kaweah Commonwealth. The poem was written by Nell Lovering (1881-1951); the watercolor was painted by Norma Hardison (1906-2004). They are the grandmother and mother, respectively, of Gaynor McKee of Three Rivers.

Dennison Mountain (elevation 8,678 feet) and the entire Dennison ridgeline is in the southernmost part of Sequoia National Park and stands sentinel over the South Fork of the Kaweah River and the residents who make their home in this canyon. It is an imposing and important feature of the area, significantly impacted by the Castle Fire portion of the SQF Complex in 2020.

Views from the summit include the South Fork canyon, Blossom Peak, Homer’s Nose, the Kaweahs, Mineral King, and much of the Great Western Divide.

The Loverings and the Hardisons were beloved members of the South Fork community, first settling there in 1908. The poem and the painting were created in 1936.

 

Painting of Dennison Mountain
1936 painting of Dennison Mountain by Norma Hardison (1906-2004)

ODE TO MOUNT DENNISON

Mount Dennison, Queen of the South Fork, 

You’re the greatest mountain of all.

As you stand at the head of the canyon,

And look o’er its rocky wall.

The River Kaweah beneath you,

Is wooing at your feet,

And the evening breezes whisper,

Through the pine trees, cool and sweet.

Fir trees grow low on your ridges,

Tall cliffs shade a verdant ravine,

Where blue shadows hide in the hollows,

And wild flowers blossom unseen.

A grey mist creeps about you,

Seeking to cover your face,

Like a veil of smoke, it clings and curls,

Then lifts to reveal your grace.

With glorious strength, you face the blast,

Rain clouds lie low on your breast.

And your lovely shoulders gleam snow white,

Where the cloak of winter rests.

Oh, mountain, enchanting, alluring,

Your beauty will always shine.

In all of your moods you are charming,

In every color divine.

From the fleecy mantle of ermine,

Worn to grace winter days,

You change to the garb of summer,

To delicate greens and greys.

Like a vain and frivolous lady,

Forever changing her clothes,

You turn from the blue of the morning,

To amethyst, mauve and rose.

And when the hand of darkness

Draws the curtain down,

You dress yourself the loveliest,

In a purple evening gown.

—Nell Lovering, 1936